Monday, 27 May 2013

A journey odyssey (From Missoula to Livingstone)

The so long awaited trip to Zambia started early on Friday 24. The night before, we met some of Laura's friends for a pre-Zambia drink at a cocktails bar called The Montgomery Distillery in downtown Missoula. They serve really nice cocktails with really cool names. I had a 'The Dude Abides', a white russian named after the film The Big Lewoski by the Coen Brothers. This was followed by a nice dinner at the Biga Pizza restaurant next door. It wasn't a late night as the alarm clock would go off before 4 am.

The first flight to Minneapolis was at 5:50 am. As a frequent Delta customer, Laura got an upgrade to first class, so we didnt sit together. I always ask for the aisle seats when I can. A man sitting next to me tried to engage in a conversation three times. I behaved evasively as I didnt feel like talking so early in the morning. The flight was a mere 2h40min. I used it to snooze and read an ebook about the adventures of an English family in Africa, starting with their first few months in Zambia.

We arrived at Minneapolis St. Paul's airport with no delays. Lindbergh Terminal 1 is a very modern and busy one. As we had over 5 hours lay-over until our next flight, we decided to get out and go discover Minneapolis. The best way to hit downtown is by light rail. It's fast and convenient, it serves both terminals, and for just $1.75 is an easy way of getting to town.

Minneapolis is home to the famous Mall of America, the second largest in the US, and the Minnesota Vikings Football team.  The buildings around the main Washington Avenue are interconnected by a network of skyways, which is quite common in cities where winters are very cold. The Mississippi River divides the city and creates a very pleasant area for terraced coffe shops, bars, restaurants and recreational areas for walks and runs. Its streets are very clean and are dominated by a fairly large number of modern glassed skyscrapers. There's a nice skyline view from the south bank of the river by the Historic Stone Bridge where Nicolette Island is.




It just takes two hours to get a flavor of what the city looks like. After that, we made our way back to the airport to jump on our next flight to Amsterdam. This second flight of the day was a longer one. Over 7 hours. Laura and I sat together this time. I continued reading my ebook, the next chapters narrated their experiences in Zimbawe. I also enjoyed watching two good movies compliment of Delta's entertainment system: 'Ruby Sparks' directed by Jonathan Dayton and Valerie Faris, and 'The perks of being a wallflower' by Stephen Chbosky.

After two movies, some games, a bit of ebook reading, two meals, plenty of snacks, some short naps and random chats with Laura, we arrived in Amsterdam. The 11 pm US time had become 6 am CET due to the time zone difference. The initial plan was to take the short distance train into the city to kill some of the four-hour-lay-over before our next flight. However, we thought it'd be too tight and decided to stay at Schiphol airport and enjoy Laura's Delta membership, which allows her and a companion access to KLM's lounge. It couldn't  have been a better decision as we could have a great breakfast, a refreshing shower and relax for a while before our journey odyssey continued. 

The next flight from Amsterdam to Lusaka, via Harare went pretty fast. I was really tired so I slept for most of the 10-hour journey. This included a 1 hour stop at Harare, capital of Zimbawe, where we were asked to remain aboard the aircraft.  After some passengers got off the plane and some others got on, we took off for our last flight segment to Zambia. At around 10:30 pm Zambia time, we landed. Upon getting off the plane, I sensed a familiar smell that I remembered from my trip to Africa last year. I was happy!


Going through immigration to obtain the tourist visa was pretty fast. It costs $ 50. After getting the passport stamped, our luggage was already out of the luggage belt. We loaded it on our backs and came out of the terminal. We had arranged a shuttle service to bring us to the hotel where we'd stay for the night. The next morning we had a comforting breakfast before heading to the buses terminal to take the coach down to Livingstone. This was somehow chaotic. A taxi took us there. 

On arrival to the bus terminal, there was a bunch of random young men asking where we were going and offering us help to obtain the bus tickets to Livingstone. This literally meant opening the car boot to take our luggage out, grabbing our bags and quickly bringing us to a pseudo ticket office 5 meters away from where all the buses were starting their engines in the middle of people rushing, shouting and going around systematically. We were kind of worried that we'd be ripped off or that our bags would disappear. However, we found out that all these men wanted was to choose a trip on our behalf so they'd get the commission from the coach service company. Cash was handed out to the guy who was the fastest in grabbing our bags and bringing them to them where we bought the tickets. Two minutes after we were putting our bags in one of the bus' luggage compartment and getting on the bus, which was already in motion. All this happened in less than 5 minutes; organized chaos!

The bus journey lasted 7 hours and included two 15 minutes toilet stops. It's a nice way of getting a good sense of Zambia. We passed by little villages where people live in thatched huts, shepherd their cows or goats, and grow maize. We also passed by larger towns like Kafue, Mazabuka, Monze, Pemba, Choma, Kalomo and Zimba, where we could see a further level of commercial development, greater as we got closer to the jewel of tourism that Livingstone is. However, all in all, my first impression is that Zambia is still a quite poor country, in terms of western economic standards. I can tell that a large proportion of Zambian people still live under a subsistence economy.

After nearly 60 hours since we left Missoula we arrived in Livingstone. A sense of relief arose. Laura and I were finally back at the place where just over 1 year ago we had met. We met our friends Merche, Miriam and Marie, owners of Feeling Africa, for a bite to eat and local beer Mosi. It was great to catch up with them!



They were great in giving us a lift to the lodge where we're staying. It was late, dark and chilly. We slept tight and woke early this morning to come across a wonderful setting by the river Maramba, where we've had breakfast at the spectacle of several playful monkey families eating and jumping on the trees across the river. Paradise!




Tuesday, 21 May 2013

Missoula

After just over two weeks in Missoula, all I can say is 'great place to visit'. This is where my girlfriend Laura lives. It's not my first time at this enjoyable town. I spent just short of two weeks in June 2012.

According to official census data, Missoula is the second largest city of Montana. It's name, 'nmesuletk', which can be translated as 'place of frozen water', comes from the Salish language of the Flathead Nation, and in reference to the Glacial Lake Missoula that could be once found in the valley. These facts and further details can be found on here.

One of the the first things that I have appreciated about Missoula is that it offers great outdoor recreational activities. People in Missoula, and in Montana in general, have a special love for being outdoors. You can also notice how serious they are about maintaining and preserving their natural resources. This allows for great hiking and trail running in the nearby mountains, and water sports on the Clark Fork River including kayaking and river surfing. There are also great opportunities for cycling, skiing, fly fishing and hunting.
Kootenai National Forest

I'm trying to recover from a long lasting calf injury. I'm happy that I've been able to get three good trail runs in this week. The pretty flat main trails of the Rattlesnake Recreational Area, the first miles of the Hellgate Canyon along the river, and the not so easy uphill run to Mount Sentinel are helping me get back on track with my runs.  Laura is a runner too and a great support for my recovery! Those runs along with several hikes with her and some cycling are doing me so good.

After all this exercise, I don't feel any guilt to kill my thirst with beer. Listen beer lovers if you're ever around in this town. Something Missoula can be proud of as well is its microbreweries. The Kettlehouse, Tamarack, Bayern and the Draught Works, for instance, make wonders of this fantastic beverage for the enjoyment of the locals and visitors alike. You can enjoy a pint in their tap rooms for $4 in average. As a lover of stout and Guinness after 13 years in Ireland, I can recommend the Milk Stout by Draught Works. Or if you venture 20 minutes drive out of Missoula, you can have a pint for as little as $3 in for instance the Wildwood Brewery in Stevensville. I found that the Organic Karapiller Red Lager was especially tasty.

Sampling beers at Wildwood Brewery


Brewpubs are only open until 8 pm. Based on Montana law, you're only allowed to have 3 pints in their tap rooms. Alternatively, you can bring your own growler, which has capacity for just over 3 pints or nearly 2 liters, to get it filled and bring your beer for its enjoyment at home.

Not only beers brewed in town can be found in Missoula. Following the good Montana tradition for a large variety of beers, most pubs and restaurants have a good choice of 'cerveza' coming from other parts of the State. One that pleasantly impressed me the other day was the Imperial Ale Good Medicine from Great Northern Brewing Company. It had a pretty rich malted taste perfectly balanced with the right amount of hops for someone, like me, who's not so fond of beers that are too hoppy.

Missoula is a great location to access two wonderful National Parks a few hours drive away from the city. Glacier National Park and Yellowstone National Park are two gems to be discovered. I was lucky to be able to visit and camp at Glacier already last year during my first visit to Laura. What impressed me the most was the dramatic mountains, panoramic views, lakes and the friendly bighorn sheep.

Last week, Laura arranged to go visit Yellowstone with two friends of hers, Courtney and Ben. We camped out for two nights. Very different to Glacier, to me Yellowstone's highlights were the colorful and lively geysers. The area given the name of the Old Faithful is probably the best known and most popular due to its timid but regular eruption. It was the eruption of the Grand geyser the one that I will always talk about though.





Norris Geyser Basin

Other things that I loved about Yellowstone were the geysers from Norris Basin, the Grand Canyon and the abundant wildlife that we came across: loads of buffalo, a black bear, three grizzly bears, moose, one coyote, pronghorn, marmotte, beaver and osprey, many of them I had never seen before.

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Buffalo


And all these things and many more that I could be writing about have kept me pretty busy, including Laura's doctoral graduation ceremonies and celebrations over the weekend. Congratulations, Laura!

We're now getting ready for our trip to Zambia this Friday. I'm so excited about it. The next post will be from somewhere in Livingstone. Thanks for reading!






Monday, 13 May 2013

Random Travelbits is born!

I hadn't thought about the idea of having a travel blog. Some of you have suggested that I did. My first thanks go to all those who encouraged me to do so, as I now think that it's a fantastic idea as a way to stay connected with my friends and family. It will also allow me to have a central place where I can keep a record of the memorable moments so that I can go back to remember them in the future.

For the first time in a very long time, I'm facing the prospects of not having to get up early in the morning to go to work. I'm going to have so much spare time to discover new places, meet new people and do things that I haven't done before.



I'm not sure for how long I'll be traveling. Or even what places I'll be visiting. Montana, where I am right now, is my first stop. Zambia will follow soon. After that, I don't know. Up until now, it's just ideas. The where and when will be decided along the way as events unfold. These unplanned plans keep me so excited. There will be plans made, which will sometimes be unmade to then be remade again. Changes. I'll take them as they come.

I don't intend to post every day. However, what I intend to do is to keep all my senses open daily, learn new things every day, make a record of the most exciting new experiences and, from time to time, share them with you. I hope that this blog will serve its purpose of keeping me connected with all those that I love. I also hope that you'll find something interesting about it. 'Random Travelbits' is now born. And I thank you for reading!



In Spanish
Nunca había pensado en escribir un blog de viaje. Algunos de vosotros me lo habéis sugerido. Os lo agradezco, ya que ahora pienso que es una idea estupenda para permanecer conectado con mi familia y mis amigos. También me va a servir como un repositorio central donde pueda recoger los momentos más memorables para en un futuro poder volver a ellos y recordarlos.

Desde hace mucho tiempo, no me despertaba cada mañana sin tener que levantarme para ir a trabajar. Voy a disponer de tanto tiempo para visitar sitios nuevos, conocer gente nueva y hacer cosas que nunca he hecho.

No sé durante cuánto tiempo voy a viajar. Ni siquiera qué sitios exactamente voy a visitar. Montana, en donde me encuentro ahora, es el punto de partida. Zambia es el siguiente destino. Después de allí, lo desconozco. Hasta ahora todo son ideas únicamente. Los destinos y cuándo los iré decidiendo en función de cómo se vayan desarrollando los acontecimientos. El hecho de tener todos los planes por definir y sujetos a posibles cambios es lo que me hace mirar a este viaje con mayor interés si cabe. Los cambios. Los iré aceptando según se vayan presentando.

No tengo la intención de publicar a diario. A lo que sí quiero comprometerme es a mantener todos los sentidos en alerta, aprender algo nuevo a diario, apuntar detalles sobre las experiencias más interesantes, y compartirlas con vosotros de vez en cuando. Espero que este blog cumpla con su cometido de mantenerme conectado con todas aquellas personas a las que quiero. De igual manera, espero que en él encontréis alguna cosa que os aporte algo. 'Random Travelbits' nace hoy. ¡Y os agradezco por vuestro tiempo en leerlo!